Day 1: Arriving in the Arctic
In June, I was lucky enough to host a fam trip to the Arctic, with a fantastic small group of travel agents.
The adventure began with breakfast at our hotel before a short walk to the airport and a smooth charter flight to Longyearbyen. Before boarding the ship, we enjoyed a brief introduction to Svalbard, visiting the coal mining area, the Svalbard Museum and the famous Global Seed Vault. Along the way, we spotted a few reindeer grazing across the tundra - our first taste of Arctic wildlife.
By late afternoon we stepped aboard Greg Mortimer, our home for the week. After settling into our cabins and completing the mandatory safety briefings, we gathered for our first dinner while the Arctic light lingered well into the evening. With bags unpacked and cameras charged, it finally felt like the adventure had begun.
Day 2: A Polar Bear Changes the Plan
The morning was spent learning the essentials of expedition life, including biosecurity procedures, safety briefings and the fitting of our muck boots - an Arctic rite of passage.
Later, we headed out on deck in beautiful sunshine to enjoy the scenery and spot wildlife. A bearded seal hauled out on the ice and plenty of seabirds kept everyone entertained before lunch.
Our planned afternoon landing took an unexpected turn when a polar bear was spotted exactly where we were due to go ashore. In true expedition style, the team quickly adapted and put Plan B into action. Before long we were heading to an alternative site where guests could choose between active hikes, moderate walks or a beachcomber option. It was a great reminder that in the Arctic, nature always has the final say.
The day ended with the Captain's Welcome and a briefing about the next day's exciting plan: entering the pack ice.
Day 3: Into the Pack Ice
Today was undoubtedly one of the highlights of the voyage.
We spent the morning navigating through the pack ice, scanning the horizon for wildlife. The patience paid off when we spotted not one but two polar bears amongst the ice. Seeing these incredible animals in their natural habitat was a truly special experience.
The day also included a visit to the bridge, cabin tours and a group photo on deck before we officially crossed 80° North.
As we continued through the ice, guests spent the afternoon in different ways - some soaking in the jacuzzi, others watching the ever-changing scenery or attending lectures on photography, sea ice and Arctic wildlife. The evening concluded with an inspiring presentation from Sue Stockdale, the first British woman to reach the North Pole.
Day 4: Exploring Svalbard's History
An early breakfast prepared us for our landing at Alicehamna in north-west Svalbard. Once ashore, guests could once again choose their preferred level of activity, allowing everyone to explore at their own pace.
Some were lucky enough to spot Arctic foxes and reindeer, while others enjoyed learning about the area's history, including a visit to an old trapper's hut weathered by decades of Arctic conditions.
Later, while repositioning to Amsterdamøya, we learned about the island's significance as a major whaling station during the 1600s. Hearing the story of the bowhead whales that were hunted here provided a fascinating insight into both the region's history and the importance of modern conservation efforts.
Day 5: Belugas, Walrus and an Arctic BBQ
Today's landing at St Jonsfjord offered something for everyone, with hiking options ashore and zodiac cruising for those preferring to explore from the water. The landscapes were stunning, with glaciers and rugged mountains stretching in every direction.
With the sun shining brightly, excitement began building for one of the voyage's most anticipated traditions: the polar plunge. While the conditions looked deceptively warm, the water temperature sat at a brisk 3–4°C, making for a very refreshing experience.
The wildlife encounters continued during our afternoon repositioning when a pod of around 20 beluga whales appeared alongside the ship. The expedition team explained that sightings like this are relatively uncommon, making it a particularly memorable moment.
Soon after, we arrived at a walrus haul-out where we watched these remarkable animals resting along the shoreline from a respectful distance. Back on board, the day finished with an informative presentation about walrus before everyone gathered on deck for the Arctic BBQ, enjoying good food, sunshine and spectacular scenery.
Day 6: A Fitting Farewell
Our final full day began with a landing at Bamsebu, where I joined the active hike along the coastline. Along the way we passed the remains of an old beluga whaling station, including whale bones and relics that remain on the beach today.
After lunch, we repositioned to Milanfjorden for a final zodiac cruise amongst some spectacular glaciers. The afternoon was a perfect ending to the voyage, with beautiful ice formations, seabirds and seals providing plenty to admire.
That evening we gathered for the Captain's Farewell and voyage recap.
Looking back over the week, it was incredible to realise just how much we had experienced in only a few days: polar bears, beluga whales, walrus, seals, glaciers, zodiac cruises, hikes and even a polar plunge.
While the wildlife and scenery were unforgettable, what stood out most was the expedition team. Their knowledge, enthusiasm and ability to adapt to whatever the Arctic presented made every day feel unique. The ship may have taken us to these extraordinary places, but it was the people guiding us through them who truly brought the experience to life.
